Maison Margiela unveils Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Paris

Maison Margiela has unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Paris under the creative direction of Glenn Martens. The collection, centered on the theme of “Hard and Soft,” explores the tension between structured tailoring and fluid draping, inspired by the traditional division of Parisian couture ateliers.

Martens utilizes the collection to redefine the house's identity, moving away from purely recognizable brand codes toward a more commercial yet conceptually driven aesthetic. Key design elements include trench coats with rigid panels, jackets with concealed closures, and dresses featuring “balcony” style chest panels that provide structure without constriction. The collection also integrates denim into tailored looks and experiments with the deconstruction of traditional menswear, such as three-piece suits.

The runway presentation featured a set designed by Mark Colle, which included floral arrangements that appeared aged or withered, serving as a tribute to Raf Simons’s 2012 Dior debut.