Regulatory gaps expose safety risks in lip cosmetics worldwide

Two new studies by researchers at the University of Birmingham, commissioned by the non‑profit Lip Service Alliance, were published in the journal Integrated Environmental Assessment and Management. They examined the safety testing and regulatory frameworks for lip‑care products such as lipstick, lip gloss, balm, oils and masks.

The studies found that in the United Kingdom, United States, European Union, Canada, China and South Korea the current regulations treat these products as external cosmetics and base safety tests on intact skin models. However, a portion of lip products is unintentionally ingested and can be absorbed through the thin, highly vascularised lip tissue, which more closely resembles oral mucosa than ordinary skin.

Because existing tests do not consider this dual exposure route, many ingredients have never been evaluated for chronic ingestion or systemic absorption. The researchers argue that the regulatory gaps leave consumers potentially exposed to unsafe substances, and that updated testing methods are needed.