Rolex and independent watchmakers see shifting trends in luxury market

The luxury watch market is experiencing a shift in consumer preferences, with independent watchmakers seeing rapid growth compared to established giants like Rolex. According to EveryWatch data, independent brands recorded approximately $355 million in sales, an 89% year-on-year increase, outpacing Rolex's 43.5% growth. Notable performers include F. P. Journe, which saw a 197% increase in secondary market value, and H. Moser & Cie., which grew by 64%.

Within the Rolex ecosystem, the Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) program is expanding rapidly. Sales of certified pre-owned Rolex watches reached $385 million in the first half of 2026, a 101% increase. This segment has overtaken the “unworn” secondary market, which declined by nearly 25%. The CPO program, which offers a two-year international guarantee, allows buyers to pay a premium for guaranteed authenticity and peace of mind.

For new buyers, the Rolex catalog remains organized around approximately fifteen families, including the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, and Submariner. However, purchasing new models often involves navigating informal waiting lists and significant price increases that occur almost annually.