Piața Amzei pastry controversy

A social media controversy in Bucharest’s Piața Amzei erupted after Edmond Niculușcă, co-founder of the restaurant La Mița Biciclista, posted a video criticizing the consumption of traditional margarine-based pastries, known as merdenele, in favor of high-end butter croissants. The comments triggered a widespread debate regarding culinary traditions, social status, and cultural identity.

In response to the criticism, supporters of the traditional Patiseria Amzei organized symbolic protests and long queues to purchase merdenele, with some participants carrying signs reading “Je suis merdenea”. The incident drew attention from public figures, including Olympic swimmer David Popovici and Bucharest Mayor Ciprian Ciucu. Following the backlash, Niculușcă issued a public apology, and Patiseria Amzei released a statement seeking to avoid long-term rivalry.

The dispute has led to renewed interest in the history and preparation of merdenele. The pastry, which has roots in Anatolian and Balkan traditions, is noted for its layered dough made from flour, salt, and mineral water, often filled with telemea cheese and egg. Chef Nicolai Tand has shared a specific recipe for the pastry, noting that the use of mineral water creates an elastic dough capable of being stretched into very thin layers, while traditional preparation involves folding the dough with oil to achieve its signature flaky texture. The name is derived from the Romanian word for rolling pin, ‘merdane’, used to stretch the dough.